Constructing a Hakama

If you missed my post about creating the pattern, click here.  This will show the pleating process and discuss a problem I ran into.

 First I drew out the patterns on my fabric.  I draw my patterns with chalk because I am too cheap to buy a washable fabric pen... Because this is a Thrifty Thursday costume my fabric is a Queen sheet :)

 After cutting out each pattern I took each one to my iron to do the pleats. This picture shows the first pleat already folded and ironed.

Measure as you go to make sure you are leaving 1" (or more if you prefer) out for the visible part of the pleat.

 Two pleats done and pinned in place.

 All four pleats on this piece done.

I did this for each of the four panels, the sewed the front two pieces together and the back two together.  Then I sewed the legs together and tried it on. 

Here comes the problem.  Somehow I innacurrately measured waist-groin.  The groin seam is FAR too short.  If I have the groin comfortable, the "waist" is at my hips, and since I measured for it to fit my waist measurements, it is WAY too small for my hips.  If I pull the "waist" up where it belongs I get painful cameltoe.

SO.  Tonight I will be fixing this problem after finishing drafting patterns for a Queen Idun and King Agdar costume commission.  Then, hopefully, without any further problems my hakama will be finished :)