August 29, 2014

Drafting a Corset Pattern - Part 2

I hate giving up.  Trying for one more time I went to Sidney Eileen.  I know I have referenced her before, but seriously the woman is a genius.  Her corset drafting skills are off the charts.  She has some awesome corset patterns online for different body types.  I am curvy so, here is the one recommended for my body type.

But the measurements are for someone who wants a 25 inch waist :/  Again…tiny waist problems.   
I want to have a 30-20-30 corset.  I probably won’t lace down that far, that takes training, but I would like to go down to a 23” waist.  So this is what I did:

Each square (seems to) represents a square inch.  So I created a few algebraic formulas to help me alter the pattern.  (This is all in inches)

Hip equation: 6x - .875 = desired hip measurement/2

For example, I wanted a 30” hip, so my equation was: 6x - .875 = 15.  X= ~ 2.625

(X actually equals 2.65, but I made it easier on myself by making it 2.625 which is 2 5/8.  Much easier to mark out.)

Then plug x into the picture for each individual pattern piece’s measurement.

Waist equation: 6x + 0.5 = waist measurement/2

Once you have x plug it into this picture.

Underbust equation: 6x + 2.5 = underbust measurement/2

Once you have solved for x, plug x into this picture.

So for my 30, 20, 30 corset I came up with these measurements:

Now.  That doesn’t complete the pattern making by a long shot.  We still need several measurements.

           Waist to hip measurement- Red arrow
2     Waist to underbust measurement - Orange arrow
After you plug those in you’ll have to decide how far below your hips you want the corset to come and how high above the underbust you want.

I drew an overbust pattern on top of the current pattern

The bust is always really tricky to draft, and it completely depends on what kind of bust shape you want.  With a Victorian corset the bust is compressed, but not completely flattened. 

 X is equal to the inches your bust sticks out.  For example, my bust sticks out 4.5”, but because I am drafting a Victorian corset I want it to stick out 2 inches.  So each of those teal pockets will be 1” deep.

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